Sunday, November 04, 2007

 

Friday 5th October

We head back to the UK, unexpectedly with the caravan. We were originally going to go back to Europe and do the old eastern block but as the weather started to get colder we decided this may not be such a great place to be during the winter. So where could we go where it will be warm?......Australia! So we arranged visas etc but on the way back to the UK we hear of a couple of job opportunities and having a modicum of sense we decide that getting employment and recouping some of our money is the best course of action. So that is it for the moment, until next time..............

 

Tuesday 2nd October

We decide to head for La Coupole the WW11 German V1 &V2 rocket base. It was a large underground bunker designed by the Nazis to store and launch the V2 rockets designed to destroy London. It is now a museum dedicated to the history of the German occupation and as a remembrance to all those affected and involved in the war. It was interesting and of course moving. There were however some images unsuitable for young children, but with a little bit of quick thinking and tactical steering we managed to avoid most of them.

When we return we discover one of the caravan wheels has got a puncture! The following morning I get my hair done and let Jon run around getting the tyre repaired.


 

Thursday 27th September

We head off to Disneyland as a birthday treat for Max. We chose to go today as the weather was the best for the week. However, when we got there, it was really cold. Luckily we had the winter woollies stored in the roof box of the car, so decked out in our gloves and woolly hats, in the middle of September, we head off to the entrance with many incredulous stares, but at least we were warm!! Well we do the Euro Disney thing and spend a small fortune and that didn’t include buying food which meant we had to re-mortgage the house, Doh we don’t have one!

Friday 28th September

We celebrate Max’s birthday in the usual style with a treasure hunt for presents, making a birthday cake and having a little party. After this we move on to a campsite near Calais and make preparations to return to the UK.


 

Sunday 23rd September

We head off to Paris, leaving Brussels and their Iguanodon’s firmly behind.

Wednesday 26th September

We venture into Paris. One of the first things we noticed about Paris when looking in the guidebooks is that there is so much to see here, it’s difficult to know where to start or what to miss out. We start our journey at the Arc de Triomphe, a nice tie in to the visit to Waterloo. After marvelling at this we moved onto the Eiffel Tower, you can climb the Arc de Triomphe but as we were visiting three structures with aerial views we decided to restrict ourselves to going atop the Eiffel Tower. So next stop Eiffel Tower, we get off at the Trocadero Metro stop and walk through the Trocadero gardens to get a fabulous view of the metal structure. The top level was closed so we only made it as far as the 2nd level, at 115 meters there are still far reaching views of Paris, including Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and other great attractions. After this we stopped off at Notre Dame and enjoyed a rather bizarre folded over Pizza.


 

Thursday 20th September

Much to Dad’s distress we took a bus and train into Brussels in order to go to the Natural History Museum, supposedly containing 30 Iguanodon skeletons and 18 Whale models. My preparation was poor to say the least and we spent a good two hours wandering around the European Houses of Parliament trying to find this rather large building, I stupidly thought it would be well sign posted from the Metro station. We asked 10 or 12 people in the area where it was and none of them knew. When we finally gave up and returned to the caravan we found a map and realised we were very close to it.

On Saturday, after Dad went home, we went into Brussels to try again, this time we found it easily and guess what? It was closed for refurbishment until October 27th. So another wasted day dragging kids on buses and metro’s, ho hum!


 

Wednesday 19th September

We head off to Brugge. Every country seems to have their version of Venice and this is Belgium’s. It is a pretty town, cobbled streets, not ideal for a scooter incidentally! The market square is worth a look with many grand and ornate gothic style buildings. The Belfort and unusual octagonal tower dates from the thirteenth century and the town house dates from the late 14th Century.

 

Thursday 13th September

We travel to Belgium taking a slight detour to travel over the storm flood gates stretching over 1 ¾ miles connecting the three small peninsulas in Zeeland. They were originally going to close off the sea but due to demands from the populace who depended on fishing in the inland estuaries the design was changed to allow the normal ebb and flow of the North Sea. If stormy conditions threaten the gates can be closed and therefore protect the surrounding lowlands from flooding.

On arrival at the campsite we realise I have left the boys towels behind in the Netherlands, doh!

Jon picks up Dad from the airport whereupon he is greeted with the delights of shopping. Saturday we head for a town north of Brussels called Mechelen, it is famous for bell ringing and has 197 carillon bells, however, we do not see these and instead go to the toy museum, this was quite good and there were enough hands on stuff for the children to remain entertained.

Sunday we go to the Atomium, this is probably what most people associate with Brussels. It is an impressive structure representing a iron atom magnified something like 60 million times. It is definitely worth a look but the inside is not worth the entrance fee.

After the Atomium we headed into Brussels centre and had a look at the Mannequin de pis, which is a small statue of a boy in a certain pose, I’m sure you can guess what. He is currently clothed in a Chinese dragon costume, this is a tradition for visiting dignitaries and there is a museum where you can see all the costumes that have been donated through the ages. The street leading to the Mannequin is swamped with chocolate shops with chocolate fountains displayed in the window and a wonderful waffle shop. Whilst enjoying our waffles we were entertained by a group of Bolivian dancers who gyrated their way down the street in front of us.

In the opposite direction is the Grand Place housing the Hotel de Ville, a very ornate and large building facing onto a square with many other ornate and grand buildings dating from the late 1600’s. The architect who designed the Town Hall committed suicide when he realised there had been a mistake in the plans resulting in the tower and main entrance being off set, consequently the building was no longer symmetrical. We arrived in the square to be greeted by marching bands and other musicians from around the world with stalls selling their local crafts. After a time enjoying these delights we made our way through the crowds to the Park next to the Palace. There is a large play park here to entertain the kids and you also get a view of the Palace, this is similar and as interesting as Buckingham Palace.

Monday I successfully manage to break the glass worktop that covers the sink and it explodes everywhere. After a clean up session we head off to Waterloo and the Butte de Lion, as it is the best day weather wise. So in the wind and rain we trudge up the 126 steps to reach the top of the monument built in 1824 to commemorate all the men that died in the infamous battle in 1815. From here you have a view of the battlefield with a small display showing where the troops were positioned.

 

Saturday 8th September


We go to a little Whaling town North of Amsterdam called Hoorn. This is a pretty town with historic buildings and cobbled streets. They were celebrating their 650 years anniversary symbolised by the unicorn whereby they had several painted ones dotted around the town. This sent Cadan into a frenzy of excitement, insisting on having his photo taken with at least two.


We return to the car park and a gentleman telling us that someone had hit our car and then driven off. Luckily he lives in one of the houses and took down the registration number and called the police. There wasn’t really much damage above a couple of scratches and a broken mudguard. The police arrived took the broken headlight as evidence and took all our details, it was all very pleasant and we remained perky throughout.


Sunday we went to Ricarda and Denis’ house for lunch and the boys all had a good time playing with toys and we enjoyed some good Dutch hospitality.


Monday we went to a Polder museum showing some of the technology behind the draining of inland lakes. The Cruquis museum is housed in an old pumping station that was powered by, of all things, a large steam engine from Cornwall.


Tuesday we went to Zaanse Schans a folk museum containing most of the things for which The Netherlands is famous. Authentic buildings, working windmills, clogs and cheese being made, although not together because that would give you cheesey feet!



Sunday, September 09, 2007

 

Saturday 1st September

We head further North near Assen and the following day we go to Franeker Planetarium. The Planetarium is found nestled into a pretty row of houses and shops situated on one side of a tree-lined canal. Eise Eisinga built a clockwork replica of the solar system into the ceiling of his main living quarters in the late 18th century. The model shows the planets (that were known about in that era) in real time orbiting the sun, so for example, it will take the model of Saturn just under 30 years to complete its cycle. There are dials showing when the moon and sun will rise and set that day, what phase the moon is in and the position of the Zodiac. A small pendulum, cogs and wheels in his attic and weights hidden in a cupboard, operates all these dials and orbiting globes. The workings are all original, this is no mean feat when you consider that during the second world war a German bomb exploded in the canal outside and destroyed or damaged most of the surrounding buildings but left the Planetarium untouched.

After the Planetarium we take a small side trip to Harlingen and watched the kite surfers for a little while. A very little while as it turned out because the wind was blowing and it was cold. However, on a nice day a walk could be enjoyed along the waters front and a trip to the lifting bridge will reward you with an eyeful of Schooners.

Monday 3rd September

We head to Geithorn an old traditional village where the houses are mainly on their own small islands and bridges criss-cross the river. The houses are traditionally quaint with their long sloping roofs and well-tended gardens with manicured lawns and organised flowerbeds. We are immediately hijacked by a boat owner and readily acquiesce to borrow one of his boats for an hour. With this arranged we meander along the gently flowing river, marvelling at the peace and tranquillity that abounds here in the Netherlands. For a country that is supposed to be the third most populated in Europe, the streets and roads at times appear deserted or at worse have the pleasant feel of a Sunday afternoon.

Tuesday 4th September

We pack up and head towards The Hague (Den Haag), a necessity in order to get a new front window for the caravan from the manufacturers located in Rotterdam. Before we pay them a visit however, we ring the Dutch friends we met when we first stepped into the Netherlands and arranged to meet them on the Wednesday. We met in the park so all boys could play and then had some warm drinks on the beach whereupon we were invited to dine with them on Sunday.

The following day we drive to Rotterdam to get the window replaced which proves to be easy and painless.

 

Wednesday 29th August

We set off for Netherlands. After travelling 600km we arrive in a rustic campsite just over the German border from Rheine. The site is situated near a wood and the buildings have the long sloping roofs typical of this region. The campsite was very quiet; well until we arrived anyway. We did manage to get told off a few times here, by placing the caravan in the wrong place, the boys being too noisy and leaving our car on the pitch and not putting it in the car park! Nevertheless the campsite was idyllic with free-range chickens, a pretty river and attractive bucolic buildings.

Cadan’s birthday descends upon us and we prepare a little party, the boys and I make a cake the day before much to the amusement of the other campers. We have struck up a friendship with a Dutch family who speak very good English and have done much travelling between them. Their son Camile is 5 and joined us for the party. After this we went swimming to round the day off.

 

Tuesday 28th August

Today we take a trip to the Randers Rainforest or Tropical Zoo. This was fantastic! It is a smaller version of the Eden’s project but with animals from the region wandering through the different domes. The dazzling birds strut across the path in front of you, or build a nest in a tree next to your head. The monkeys dash and frolic amongst the greenery and if you look closely you can see the sloth sleeping on a branch. There are a few other mammals wandering freely but their names escape me.

Another British couple pitch up next to us who also have 3 children and although they are only holidaying in Denmark they want to take a year off and tour next year. They are also currently home educating their 5 year old son, so I was straight in there getting a few hints and tips before we left.

 

Wednesday 22nd August

It is time to move on. So we head to Billund on Jutland, the main land, home of Legoland. The campsite has a really good play park and we site the caravan right next to it so the boys could spend all day there, and they did! Soon after another English family arrives and we are both surprised and delighted to find they are doing something very similar to us. They have 3 children all about 2 years younger than ours and have sold their house; they have currently been touring for 3 months. Petra is Swedish and John is Cornish uh oh I am beginning to see the connection!

The following day we go to the circus, the boys were all enthralled and really enjoyed it. There were too many animals involved for our liking and had we known we probably wouldn’t have gone but despite this it was an entertaining evening.

The following day we traipse off to Legoland, within easy walking distance from the campsite and a good time is had all round. We were surprised that even after 6 hours at the park we had not managed to go on all the rides and even more surprised that we came away without buying any lego!

 

Monday 20th August

We drive the 40 minute journey to try the Lejre Research Centre again to find that yesterday when we were ushered into the make shift car park it was not the research centre and if we had driven 1km further up the lane we would have found it and found it open. We also discovered that it is now the low season and therefore closed on Mondays – Doh! We head back to the caravan defeated. Will we try again tomorrow?

Tuesday 21st August

Yes we do and we arrive in time to see the wild boars being fed. After this we walk through some countryside and see some of the black horned cattle, ancestors or close relatives to the Aurochs that used to be hunted by man during the Stone Age. The Aurochs used to be 2m high at the shoulder and although these aren’t as tall they are none the less impressive. After passing a pit used to trap wild boar we arrive at the Stone Age village where we can see a traditional shelter made from sticks and animal skins. The boys enjoy helping a man make a fire whilst he heats some primitive tar to put on some traditionally built boats. We can view some primitive tools and we had the opportunity to ask questions about the Neolithic way of life.

After this we march on to the Iron Age settlement containing five or six dwellings as well as a weaver’s cottage, a forge and several goats scattered around. We could walk into the houses and pretend to sleep in the beds all covered in sheeps skin. After this we walk into the Viking settlement and have a good look around. We have a go in a traditional river boat hollowed out of a tree trunk and nearly capsize with all 5 of us in it. The children are rigid with fear and we quickly return to the shore, whereupon Jon sets out on his own with Jory who suddenly screams out that they are sinking much to everyone’s amusement. They were not sinking and both returned safely to the shore. If we wanted we could have helped hollow out a tree trunk with an axe to help build another boat but we decided it was safer not to give this a go.

We all had a go at trying to make sparks with a piece of flint and iron, Jon managed to do it but no one else did. There were several areas marked out for making fires and going to the dying embers of one Jon stoked it back into life. Whilst Jory and Jon kept the fire going I took the other two boys to grind some wheat into flour, whereupon another English group came along and we joined forces. Once the rain started to fall we gathered up the flour, added some water, shaped them into biscuits and proceeded to cook them on an iron plate atop the fire, it took a little while. They were quite edible and with the added ingredient of a few herbs, created an interesting taste!

 

Friday 17th August

We head off into the city of Copenhagen and we spend a rather fretful day wondering around looking at the beautiful buildings. The city feels like a cross between London and Amsterdam with grand historic buildings, new architecture, canal and bicycles.

Sunday 19th August

We wanted to go to the Lejre Research Centre, where there are active Stone Age, Iron Age and Viking Age settlements with traditional crafts and work carried out during this era. This weekend they had a special archery contest. As we arrived we were directed into a makeshift car park and we joined the queue of people to enter through the gates. This advertising was big on bringing your own picnic, as we looked around at the people we thought we were under prepared as they had sack trucks loaded with folding chairs and tables and large picnic baskets. We could also hear musicians tuning up their instruments. Things were starting to look a bit unusual and we managed to collar a security guard who explained that we were in the queue for a concert only available to ticket holders and that the visitors centre was closed.

With our day’s activities cancelled we visited the Frederiksborg Castle dating from 1560 it is boasted as being the most elaborate slot (castle) in Scandinavia. It is built from red bricks and has a copper roof, resplendent with large golden balls on the Tower. To start with we walked over the moat along a cobbled bridge and entered into the main courtyard where we were greeted with an ornate and elaborate fountain, dragon drainpipes and carved statues. The castle houses a national history museum, the rooms are exquisitely decorated and the great hall is truly marvellous and we were lucky to hear some musicians practising.

 

Tuesday 14th August

After 8 hours of driving, we arrive in Copenhagen in Denmark, greeted by warm sunshine. We had a 30 minutes ferry to get here and were astounded to see a train drive onto the Ferry and then off again once we reached Denmark. We wake up the following day to wind and rain!

Thursday 16th August

Roskilde and the reconstructed Viking ships beckoned. 5 ships from the Viking age had been sunk in the Fjord to create a barrier protecting the inhabitants of Roskilde. These ships were rediscovered and have been cleaned preserved and reconstructed, one of which is a warrior ship that could have carried 60 – 100 men. The reconstruction is by no means complete but you can still appreciate the shape and size of them. In the harbour there are some replica boats so you can get a better idea of what they looked like.

After this we trundled off to Dragor a preserved 18th century town with yellow cottages topped with thatch or pink tiles. We wondered around the very tidy cobbled lanes, had some fudge and enjoyed the views of the pretty harbour.

 

Friday 10th August

We went to the Lindt Chocolate Museum, the museum was ok for a quick wander through but the truly best bit was the small factory where the different machines and techniques for making chocolate are on display and working. The children could see the manufacture of chocolate from the Cocoa bean to the finished wrapped chocolate and of course they were allowed to indulge is some chocolate from the shop.

Saturday 11th August

We pack up and leave the crowded campsite heading to Wolfsburg near Hanover; the drive was supposed to be 4 hours but was extended by 1 and ½ due to road works and traffic jams. So when we finally reached the road leading to the campsite we were dismayed to find our way blocked by a Policeman. A football game had just finished and they had closed the road, which runs alongside the stadium, until all the fans had left. This was 6pm and the policeman said we could come back at 8pm! So we end up parking in a Staples car park and I make bacon and egg sandwiches for tea and then try again.

Monday 13th August

The campsite is conveniently located for a trip to the Autostadt and Volkswagen factory and close enough for us to walk. The most prominent buildings are the two towers filled with new Volkswagen cars, straight from the factory. They are taken along underground tunnels and then placed in these silos with the use of an automatic lift; you could see cars being taken up and down all the time.

Inside the main building there is a play area for the children where you can leave them for free for 1 and ½ hours, this was complete with race track and go karts. The children practically begged us to let them go there and we reluctantly agreed. The whole thing is OK for a general quick walk through and there are some interesting shows and not to mention a few nice cars.

All in all the experience was a good one and we enjoyed ourselves. For 30 we spent all day there and had 3 hours of free childcare for the boys. The building architecture is interesting and unique; the grounds are laid out well and were a sensory delight. The rotating lavender tunnel was one of the many weird and wonderful things they had there.

 

Wednesday 8th August

We went to Wuppertal today to see the only suspension railway in the world. It’s basically like a tram but the rail is on the top rather than the bottom with the carriages hanging down. The track is directly over the river and meanders along with it. Jon became very excited and there were quite a few shouts of “Look at that!” in my ear as I was concentrating on driving, I thought a quick slap was necessary but managed to restrain myself. We parked the car one stop away from the main Wuppertal train station and jumped aboard, after buying a ticket obviously! I didn’t expect the train itself to wobble about so much; Jon running to the front to take a video probably increased the wobbling. We jumped off at the Zoo stop and did the zoo thing.

 

Saturday 4th August

We head back to Germany to a campsite next to the Rhine and spend a couple of days not doing much but enjoying the sunshine. Tuesday we head into Cologne itself, as we emerge out of the train station in the middle of Cologne and see the huge Cathedral dominating the skyline, I suddenly realise I have been here before; some 12 years earlier. The Cathedral is the largest gothic cathedral in Germany and is truly massive, there are some original 14th Century stained glass windows, lots of ornate mosaics and the gargoyles are pretty interesting.

After lunch at the sinful McDonalds, we meander through the town and go into the Globetrotter outdoor shop. Well what fun we had in there! First of all we discovered the ice room. The room is kept at a steady -7.5 degrees and there are benches and tables carved out of ice, you can also turn on a wind machine, all of this is of course for testing out their extreme weather gear and we just had to have a go. On another level we found the rain room where you can don the wet weather gear and go into a room where the heavens open, we didn’t try this out but there was someone in there getting drenched as we walked by. There was a ball pit for the boys to play in, as well as a moving image of a pond with fish projected onto the floor, when you walked over it you caused ripples and the fish swam away from you. On the top level there is a corridor full of climbing walls and on the bottom floor there is an indoor pool where you can try out boats and diving gear, of course Jon had to try out the canoe and gave the boys a ride each as well. All in all the shop was really cool and we had lots of fun there and I would definitely recommend a visit if you ever come to Cologne, oh the Cathedral is worth a look too!

 

Friday 3rd August

Time to visit Luxembourg City. The capital city of Luxembourg is quiet, clean and well maintained. We visited the church of Our Lady which had a truly fantastic organ and lots of glittery and ornate things on the altar, good stained glass windows and frescos, especially the man sporting bunny rabbit ears as spotted by Cadan. There is truly, on the ceiling, if you don’t believe us, go and see for yourself!

After this we traipse off to see the Palais Grand Ducal, the official royal residence of the Duke and Duchess of Luxembourg. It has an attractive and ornate façade and is surprisingly smack bang in the middle of the street with very little security. A few steps away is the main square with street café’s and a play park surrounding the statue of Grand Duc William II. Jon enjoyed an Irish coffee whilst I enjoyed a toilet run and bottom wiping – um something is up here I think! Anyway, Luxembourg was a nice city, if a little tres chic and expensive. It seems to be on two levels, with the town perched up high, on the second level there is a park situated under the numerous bridges, meandering around the bottom of the city.

 

Wednesday 1st August

Off to a new country we arrive in a campsite near Bonn in Luxembourg and pitch up next to a gently flowing river with the opposite bank covered in a rich dense wood and five white geese to set the picture off nicely. Not wanting to be ignorant English Jon enquires as to what language is spoken in Luxembourg “Is it French or German?”
“Yes” the lady answers, “We speak both.”
“But on a day to day basis what do you normally speak?”
“Oh we speak Luxembourgish!” Ok then! So we decided to speak in French, although ended up putting a few German words in as we had been used to speaking German for the last month or so, this worked fine as Luxembourgish does seem to be a mixture of the two so we were understood perfectly, well almost!

On the Thursday we head north to the town of Vianden to visit the Chateau built in the 11th century; the boys again enthused over the walk up the hill along the clean and well maintained cobbled streets. The suits of armour, lances, scythes and tapestry room held the boys interest but the bedroom, kitchen and dining room had them kicking their heels.

 

Saturday 28th July

As Jon was practically dying from his cold we didn’t do much until Saturday when we went to see the Hangloch waterfall, which at 97m is the tallest natural waterfall in Germany. And indeed it was a waterfall with all the characteristics you would expect, white rushing water, cool mist, and thunderous noise and to the boys’ immense joy a walk to the top.

Monday 30th July

We leave behind the rain in the black forest and head for Heidelberg purported to be the most beautiful town in Germany. Walking along the street we turned into a small alley and were presented with the pink walls of a cathedral looming out at us with some impressive carved statues on the façade. Inside the cathedral was painted entirely white, giving it a light and airy feel and the frescoes were divine! After this we decided it was time to walk up the steep hill to the Heidelbergerschloss (castle) built in 12th Century, it is now mainly in ruins, although from the interior courtyard the façade is truly marvellous with the splendid pink stone providing a rich hue to the carved figures.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

 
Videos online! - Mostly containing photos with a couple of live action videos. The quality is fairly poor to enable faster upload over the internet, but broadband is still advised.

Be warned: People put all sorts on video google so navigate away from the single pages I present at your peril! Having said that just follow the links below and then use back on your browser once viewed and you'll be fine.


Euro Trip - 1 Spain, Gibraltar, Morocco and Portugal
4 min 22 sec
This video details the first few months of our tour from November 2006 thru to January 2007. http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-5437964195002245602&hl=en-GB

Euro Trip - 2 France and Italy
5 min 32 sec
This video details our tour for January and February 2007. http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=8613309876472015496&hl=en-GB

Euro Trip - 3 Sicily and Greece
This video details our tour from February to April 2007.

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-2615007407790957858&hl=en-GB

Euro trip - 4 Cyprus and Croatia
4 min 45 sec
This video details our tour from April and May 2007.

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=5837423172612382482&hl=en-GB

Euro trip - 5 Slovenia Austria
3 min 57 sec
This video details our tour for June 2007.

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-4261266202415719912&hl=en-GB

Friday, July 27, 2007

 

Sunday 22nd July
In order to go on the motorways in Switzerland you need to purchase a toll sticker, which admittedly lasts all year but costs a shocking €60. After Dizzy (the sat nav) takes us to the wrong Strandweg in the capital of Bern and we drive through a roundabout instead of around it, well in our defence it was a strange design and we were unknowingly following the tram lines that went straight through it, we end up at the campsite next to the raging river Aare.

After pitching up we walk along said river, Max carrying his football and yes you guessed it, in goes the ball. Just to give you an idea of how fast the river was flowing, we were running alongside the ball and it quickly rushed out of sight. Max put on a good show jumping and screaming hysterically “My ball! My ball!” So much so that one man took pity on him and risking life and limb jumped in and rescued the ball, even though he was fully clothed. This ball saviour delivered the prize to Max. If he was expecting enthusiastic rejoicing from our eldest he was sorely disappointed as Max merely whispered a quick “Danke”, after prompting, and gave a quick smile. I on the other hand thanked him profusely; the man took it on the chin and walked away.

The following day we walked into Bern along the river Aare, needless to say Max did not take his ball. We did however take his scooter and it proved to be a great success. It took the boys’ minds off walking and despite our natural worry about cars and using people as skittles there were no near misses and all went well. Bern is a lovely city and we were surprised how quiet it was for a capital city on a Monday. The traffic, car and people, was light and it felt so relaxed and airy. The boys had fun spotting all the bears and the interesting fountains, a favourite being the child-eating ogre. Bern has had live bears in their bear pit since 1450 and so it was a must that we gave these a quick visit, the boys were thrilled to see two full grown brown bears.

On the walk back from Bern Jon remembered that the HR Giger museum was supposed to be in Switzerland so after a quick internet search we find out it is a 50 minute drive away so plan to go there the next day. For all those, like me, who have no idea who Giger is, he designed and built the Alien, the Alien craft and face huggers, for which he received an Oscar, on show at the museum. Much of the museum is based on the Alien character and there are drawings and life size models of it. There is also a rather wicked table and chair set made out of Alien forms and many other ‘interesting’ pictures and sculptures. Just across the way is the bar with the most groovy feel to it with spinal columns encasing the ceiling and skeleton chairs and tables that give the place an unworldly look. We were lucky that our boys didn’t find it scary or disturbing but mostly funny and the vaguely pornographic images seemed to go unnoticed (the really pornographic images were hidden behind a flimsy curtain but despite an irresistible peek from all 3 they didn’t seem to register what they were seeing.). The Giger museum is situated in the town of Gruyere and according to Jon the whole place had an overwhelming cheesy aroma. Still suffering from my cold I could not smell a thing. The town of Gruyere is small and pleasant, if somewhat touristy.

Wednesday 25th July
We head off back to Germany with Jon now suffering from the cold and of course he is dying! We camp in the black forest in a child-orientated campsite. A good idea as we have just spent an entire afternoon without seeing the boys. Relax, what is normally a point of consternation, turned out to be a good monitoring system as we could hear them all afternoon, however, they were far enough away for us to keep an ear on them without giving us a headache! We are currently sorely disappointed in the lack of black forest gateau in evidence! But rest assured we will continue our search even though we have just found out it originated in Switzerland, Doh!

 

Saturday 21st July
Oh woe is me, the worst thing has happened! I have caught a cold, my 9 months of germ free living has come to an abrupt end with sore throat, headache and more snot that can be conceived (sorry but its true). However, I am not a man and will struggle on.

We are close to Liechtenstein so decide to go there, for no other reason then it is one of the smallest countries in the world and we can say we have been there. As it turns out that is the only reason for going! We can at least say we have been in 4 countries in one day as we start in Germany, the road leads us in and out of Austria, we make a small foray into Switzerland and of course stay a few hours in Liechtenstein. With a lack of information on the country we head to the capital Vaduz, the town (as it can not be called a city) has an interesting main street with many modern sculptures and water features which keeps the boys amused running from one to the other. There are a couple of museums to be visited but as the boys were not in “the right frame of mind” we elected to give them a miss. We were particularly spurred on to this course of action by looking in through the window of the modern art museum to see several exhibits on the floor; this was definitely not a place for little feet to tread.

The castle overlooking the town was interesting but as it is now the residential home of the ruling family, visitors are not allowed, however there is a walk that can be taken up to the castle from the town centre. We did not know how long it would take and did not feel like climbing a hill so did not go this route. With little else to do there with the children we headed home.

 

Tuesday 17th July
Monday I take the boys off to the park for a few hours whilst Jon studies and then we get ready to head to a campsite near the castle of Neuschwanstein. On Wednesday we travel to the castle, after waiting in the queue for tickets for a good 40 minutes we discover that the next tour is another 4 hours away so we decide just to walk up and view it from the outside. With another promise of ice cream the boys become angelic willing walkers and the dragging up the hill is kept to a minimum. Neuschwanstein is one of those places you either love or hate but nobody can deny its dramatic presence perched on a mountainside it dominates the surroundings. The fairytale turrets and the grey granite walls certainly give it a majestic and imposing character. The short walk to Saint Mary’s Bridge is well worth it as the view of the castle from there really shows it’s regal qualities at its best. For the walk back to the car park we decided to go “off-piste” and walk through the woods.

 

Sunday 15th July
We meet in the middle of Halstatt where we are taken to the Charnel house. An interesting place where the skulls and long bones of the local residents are set on display after having been painted. The reason for having the charnel house is due to the cemetery not being big enough. After 10-20 years of being buried the skulls and long bones are removed from the grave, cleaned, bleached in the sun and then painted by the family before being put in the Charnel house. The last one to be put in there was 1983. Most people are cremated now. It is a fascinating if somewhat morbid place.

After this we head off to walk up the mountain; it is a hot day and the climb is hard going but the boys do really well. The walk down is understandably quicker. After this we picnic and go to a lakeside park where the boys enjoy playing in the water. We return to the same restaurant and then say a fond farewell to our guides, interpreters and friends with the possibility of meeting up again in France in August.

 

Saturday 14th July
We meet at the bottom of the cable car that is to take us to the Dachstein ice caves; on the way there we are stopped on the road due to a helicopter flying overhead. The person stopping us did not speak English and we are none the wiser about the reason for stopping traffic. However, when we get to the car park all is explained. A large part of the car park has been sectioned off with a cement mixer in the middle, the helicopters are coming in to pick up large vats of cement and carry them up the mountain. This is how all the buildings on the mountain are constructed and explains why the food on the mountain can be very expensive. The boys were beside themselves with excitement at being so close to helicopters landing and taking off frequently.

We travel in a rickety old cable car which swings about a bit too much for my liking and, in Jon’s words, I am standing next to Miss Panic Pants who is not overly keen on us all crowding in around her and offers up words such as “Oh my god!” every few seconds. On arrival she unceremoniously pushes past us and shouts “Move!” I try not to get cross as she is obviously a bit stressed.

It is quite a steep walk up to the mouth of the caves and takes about 30 minutes, it is really quite hot, so we feel a little foolish when at the mouth of the caves we start putting on jumpers and coats. They were most definitely needed though as the temperature in the caves was around 3 degrees. Having never been in an Ice Cave before we found it quite interesting and unique. The boys enjoyed it as well.

 

Friday 13th July
We have arranged to meet the Querner’s at the bottom of the near vertical Funicular railway; it is only a 5 minutes walk from our campsite. The boys are all excited to see one another not to mention about going on the railway that can be seen from the campsite and has caused much fascination over the last couple of days. At the top of the railway there is a 15 minutes walk to the Salt mines. We all dress up in ‘mining gear’ and join the tour spoken in both German and English. It was a well organised tour with many different techniques used to share the information. There were a few talks, lick stones to experience the salt in the rock, a short video that even though in German the boys were captivated enough to behave through, a talking miner, a couple of still life exhibits, a light show on the walls of a cavern showing where the man in salt had been found, the highlight of course has to be the two wooden slides that you need to use to get to the lower levels of the mine and finally the train ride out of the mines. This was definitely a worthwhile visit and the boys really enjoyed it.

The Querner’s used their local knowledge and took us to a nearby restaurant that specialises in a traditional Austrian dish consisting of different cuts of pork, Sauerkraut and dumplings; it was delicious. It was a novelty to have someone who understood the menu and knew what to order. There was unexpected excitement for the boys as the large Pole that had been erected in the car park for the May festival was being taken down, we stayed around to watch the unexpected event with the men of course offering their opinion on what the professionals were doing wrong with the whole procedure.

 

Halstatt Wednesday 11th July
After two weeks our cards run out and we have need to move to Halstatt where we have arranged to meet our Austrian friends. We arrive at a wet and soggy campsite where the owner tells us they have had 3 days of solid rain, a common problem in Austria.

Thursday we take a walk around the town of Halstatt. Situated on a beautiful mountain lake with the surrounding mountains reflected in the still waters, it has a nice fresh Alpine feel to it.

 

Sunday 1st July
We decide to take the boys on the fairy tale walk near Trebesing. First we stop off for lunch in the town of Trebesing and marvel at the giant inflatable pink beach balls dotted around the town. We also pop into the Porsche museum, which is supposed to be the largest private collection in Europe; free of course with our Karnten card.

Monday 2nd July
A day to be remembered. Jon takes all 3 boys out and gives me a day of peace. Hurrah, ok so I spend the first 3 hours cleaning, tidying and washing but I can do it at my own pace without interruptions. The other hour I spend writing this and hopefully I will get an hour to read my book or do some other relaxing activity, alas it is raining so I expect they will be back soon.

I was right 4 minutes later they all turn up noisy and demanding, after having a pleasant day at a weird animal park where most things were stuffed and a doll museum (free of course!).

We spend the next week or so visiting a few more attractions. I take the boys to the Reptile zoo where I am rushed around the room with cries of “Mummy look at this” and “Come on I’ve seen something amazing”. After 10 minutes of being pulled in three different directions and much shouting resulting in drowning out everybody else, I call things to order and go round the exhibits in sequence. After this we visit Minimundus, a park of famous buildings in miniature, to my surprise the boys did recognise the acropolis and the leaning tower of Pisa. They had a good space shuttle model and we were lucky to be next to it when it ‘blasted off’. However, the kids were mostly bored of the park so we didn’t spend too long there. There was a film show about the planets but this was 50 minutes long so I didn’t even contemplate it.

We had two more walks on Gelitzen, we did attempt to visit one of the other peaks but as it had only a single chair lift, this would mean Max would have to go up by himself so we decided against it. The walks were pleasant and we made sure we always walked down hill to reduce the amount of moaning. We also struck a deal of ice cream at the bottom if they didn’t whinge or moan and this worked really well. Bribery; a parent’s best tool.

We had a couple of days lounging about the caravan where Jon put together a video of our trip so far and the boys and I did a project on all the animals that eat fish, inspired by the BBC’s Blue Planet series. The boys make friends with some Dutch boys and although they don’t share a common language manage to enjoy each other’s company. All 4 of Max’s front teeth fall out and the tooth fairy is now skint.

 


Thursday 28th June
We are in the southern region of Carinthia near the town of Villach and spend Thursday getting our bearings and shopping. Friday we invest in the Karnten card; €34 for each adult and €14 for Max, the other two are free. This gives us free entrance to most attractions in the area and is valid for 2 weeks. Straight away we make use of it by catching the cable car and then chair lift to the top of the Gerlitzen mountain and enjoying a gentle 90 minutes walk back to the midway point, here Jon and Max enjoyed going on the Go-Karts and then we caught the cable car back to the bottom. Parking was free and with the Karnten card so were the cable car and chair lifts.

Saturday 30th June
Jon needed more studying time so I took the boys to the Rosegg wildlife park (free entrance with the Karnten card). There are the usual goats, deer, donkeys, guinea pigs, kangaroos and a Lynx. At the entrance there is a play park and an area where you can feed the deer and smaller animals. Further along you can enter a separate area where you can actually walk with the deer and goats amongst the woods. During our walk in the woods we saw a goat standing precariously on a branch part way up a tree, the boys found this very funny.

 

Sunday 24th June
We unrepentantly spent a day in the local shopping centre, the only reason I feel the need to mention this is that we could leave the boys in a special play area with a carer for free for 1 hour! How fantastic is that and of course we didn’t leave them there – are you kidding? We practically shoved the kids inside and then did a runner, well the kids weren’t exactly waving tearfully as we ran off, parents? What parents? As is always the case 1-hour sped by but we did manage to do what we wanted without being stressed and the boys had a good time playing. In the shopping centre there is also a bouncy castle with a slide; this was free too. What a fantastic service for families.

Tuesday 26th June
We take the caravan into Zagreb to get the water heater fitted. Our idea was to leave the caravan there and take the boys to the zoo for the day. This was not to be however, despite booking the caravan in for 10am there were a lot of other people they needed to attend to. Basically we had to stay with the caravan and didn’t leave until 3pm.

Wednesday 27th June
During breakfast the police arrive because someone’s car has been broken into, it turns out someone else had something stolen as well. Although we should really be remaining in Zagreb to have the car fixed we decide it is only a matter of time before something happens to us. So within 5 minutes we have not only decided to pack up and leave Zagreb, sadly without seeing the old city, but also to head to Austria.

 

Wednesday 20th June

We spend a day looking for the Land Rover garage to get another quote for the damage to the door as the one we had in Italy never made it to the insurance company. We have to wait 10 days for the quote to be translated; this big delay does not fill our hearts with joy.
We later find a Truma outlet where we can take our caravan to get the water heater fixed and book the caravan in for the following Tuesday.

Thursday 21st June

We head for the Plitivice lakes, we have been told by many people that these are most beautiful and are a must see. We were not disappointed; it was such a tranquil, calming and truly beautiful place. There are tranquil lakes with golden coloured fish swimming close to the surface and even a few Crayfish can be spotted if you are lucky. Soothing waterfalls ranging from a gentle trickle to a thunderous torrent provide the calming melody of nature. There are many boardwalks taking you across the lakes and the path through the surrounding wood twists and turns that the boys didn’t seem to mind walking and the moaning was kept to a minimum. The fact that a train ride and a boat ride are included in the price also helped with the boys’ enjoyment. This place is truly a gem and a place not to be missed, if you don’t go anywhere else in Croatia, you must go here.

Friday, June 22, 2007

 


Monday 18th June
We can’t afford to stay at Terme Catez any longer as it is very expensive but we still have some things we need to do in Zagreb. There is a campsite 40 minutes drive along the motorway, however we spot on the map there is one just north of Zagreb in the Pirode park this area looks more our scene. We don’t have any information on it but are confident we can find it. After 2 hours our confidence is waning but after exploring every road in the area we realise the campsite is not actually in existence. There is another on the map to the east of Zagreb and so we head for this one, this too is a phantom, so after spending 4 hours on the road we return to the original Zagreb campsite annoyed at wasting a day by driving when we didn’t have to.


The campsite is not the best we have stayed at and is right next to the motorway so is somewhat noisy. There is no security; with the gates always open and no wardens, people can come and go as they please and Jon goes into prevention overload. As we later learn out this was a sensible precaution as 3 nights later a British couple wake to find a man inside their camper, helping himself to their valuables, they scare him off but only after he has taken their laptop, digital camera and a wedge load of cash. When he tells us this makes me think about the blind in the boys bedroom that shot up in the early hours of the morning, not thinking about it I just went in and closed it, but this has never happened before, was this just coincidence or had the man thought to have a look in our van as well? Anyway we are lucky that nothing of ours seems to have been touched and even the replacement scooter we left outside has remained in place.

 


Thursday 7th June
We visit Bled, the church on the island in the middle of the lake is the common picture used by the tourist board to represent Slovenia. It is very beautiful and even though the day was dull at best with intermittent rain we could still see the hint of the emerald water, I imagine when the sun is shining it is truly splendid. We enjoyed a 2hr walk around the lake, should take a normal person about 1hr.


Friday 8th June
We head west so we are just across the border from Zagreb (Croatia’s capital) from where Jon is flying out to the UK. As I was to be on my own with the boys for 4 days I wanted somewhere with plenty of entertainment. We stay at a campsite called Terme Catez which has 7 outdoor swimming pools, the water is thermally heated so is pleasantly warm and 2 indoor pools both boasting many slides, wave machines and Jacuzzi’s. There is a pool available for all ages and abilities. The day Jon left Max lost his first tooth, quite literally in one of the swimming pools. I was more upset then Max and determined to find it but to no avail. The tooth fairy still decided to pay him a visit in the night.


All in all we spent a good week here with the boys enjoying swimming and even squeezing in some learning. One down side was having the boys’ new scooter stolen from the swimming pools when we absent-mindedly abandoned it for 10 minutes.


Jon had only planned to be away for 4 days but choose to extend for a few days as there were a couple of British things he needed to stock up on and he needed more time. As it turned out this was a wise decision as it gave him the opportunity to visit his mum who had become ill in hospital.


Driving along the motorway on my way to pick Jon up from Zagreb airport, I congratulate myself on my timing, despite rushing the children though their tea and bedtime routine so that they were fed, watered, cleaned and pyjama’d. I had also managed to tidy the caravan a bit. As I hit the outskirts of Zagreb the weather turned dramatically with heavy rain, lightening and high winds, everyone was crawling along at 60km/hr or less as visibility has been dramatically reduced. I wait outside the airport for Jon’s phone call to say he has arrived with the wind shaking the car and water being driven along the road like a fast moving river. After half an hour of waiting and hoping Jon has managed to land, toilet demands invoke the need to enter the airport and pay astronomically high parking fees.


After wading through the lake that used to be a car park I make it into the terminal and see that Jon’s plane is in overflow, assuming that meant they were waiting to taxi to the terminal and he would be with us shortly. Therefore, I wasn’t expecting the phone call that came 5 minutes later from Jon telling me the plane had been diverted to Split due to the bad weather and they were waiting there for 1/2 hour to get a weather update. At the time of the phone call the rain had stopped and the wind had died down to a gentle breeze. Jon arrives and we have been waiting in the car for 3 or so hours and again the DVD player for the boys was a godsend and kept them happily entertained.


I take the opportunity to buy a British mag but much to my chagrin, I later work out it cost me 10 to read about J-lo’s luxurious house, health and beauty tips (as if I need any!!) and what bikinis are a must for this summer, if you can spare a #100 or so.

 


Tuesday 5th June
Jon’s exam and return to the UK was imminent so he had a bit of work and revision to catch up on, as the weather was proving to be inclement I decided to brave taking the boys to the Postojnska caves on my own for the day. The day went well and I was glad I didn’t let the worry of getting lost deter me from going. The only option of seeing the caves is via a tour. It starts with a train ride, this was exhilarating for the children if somewhat apprehensive for myself with bits of rock rushing towards you disconcertingly close to the sides of the train and the heads of the people in it. I had to grab a few outstretched arms as they pointed to something of interest as it blurred past us. When you alight from the train there are language-based groups for the tour and typically the English group was the largest. Mindful of the children’s need to constantly ask questions, I kept them at the back whilst the guide delivered her spiel at the interesting places. I did manage to glean some interesting information to pass on to the boys who lapped it up. The walking pace however was far too quick for the boys to keep up and in the end I stopped trying to rush them to the next appropriate place, instead we meandered along at a pace that suited them and enabled them to ask questions, not to mention spot all the places where the baby cave bears would sleep. At one point we were plunged into darkness, which only sent Max into a mild panic, later the guide informed us that this was done so we could experience the true atmosphere inside of the cave, this being the complete lack of light and disorientation. What a great thing to do, pity there was a complete lack of warning! One of the highlights was the opportunity to see the amphibious fish that inhabit the caves in this region (they looked like Salamanders to me but they kept calling them amphibious fish, and in the end what do I know about it?). The boys enjoyed seeing these and talked about them for ages afterwards. The tour ends in the concert gallery and we were treated to a group of school children giving an impromptu singing session, which was quite lovely. We endured another speedy train journey back to the entrance and ran through the rain to the car.

 


Monday 4th June
We head into the capital and meander through the city with no set plan. Ljubljana is a university city and this gives it a young and vibrant feel against a backdrop of historic buildings. Strolling along the Ljubljana River is very pleasant and near Trnovo there are steps along the river adorned with willow trees, just inviting you to sit with a picnic. At Triple Bridge you can catch a land train up to Ljubljana Castle giving a good view of the city but to be honest little else. There are a couple of walks around the top, which would probably be quite pleasant, however it was raining and we didn’t have any wet weather gear so elected to stay dry.


We visited the fruit and vegetable market whereupon we gorged ourselves on strawberries and cherries and stocked up with the necessary. By this time it was 4pm and the boys were getting tired and teasy and did not appreciate the walk back to the car, to add insult to injury we gave each a bag with a vegetable for them to carry, fruit being too easily bruised!

 


Thursday 31st May
Today we travelled in 3 countries in 1 day! We were visiting the famous Lipizzaner horses in Slovenia, the quickest way there was through Italy so we ended up going through 12 passport controls!! Going through Italy we got a little bit too excited about seeing a Lidl, so Jon could buy his Rooibos tea and later on a camping shop sent us whooping with joy. We really must learn to get a grip on ourselves! We bought a few essentials, like new picnic seats for the boys, a light for the awning and a hammock. OK so maybe the hammock is not really essential but everyone else’s look so inviting that we really had to join in.


Sunday 3rd June
We pack up and head towards Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital. Our campsite is situated approx 20KM north of the city and is located next to a lake, surrounded by green trees and lush vegetation, including an abundance of wild strawberries, a treat for children and birds. The surrounding countryside is dotted with charming villages and picturesque churches.

 


Sunday 27th May
After a couple of days spent in the sea we decided to take a trip to Hum the smallest town in the world. This is a small walled town with about 20 houses in total, quite pretty even in the pouring rain! There is a quaint souvenir and art shop and another shop selling local wines, cheeses and truffles. As we have never had truffles before (My they are expensive) we bought some truffle paste and were given a recipe, we will try this out later and let you know the result. On the way back Jon got fined 500kn (50 pounds) for overtaking in the wrong place. He is not doing too well with the car lately!!


Tuesday 29th May
We popped over to Piran in Slovenia and had a slightly damp walk around the seaside town. The town has a heavy Venetian influence and was quite pretty. But as Jon put it he has seen so many of these little seaside towns that they no longer shake his tree!


Wednesday 30th May
My birthday, 21 again! Jon and the boys had made some cards, excellent home learning practising their writing skills, and I got a box of chocolates, which the boys promptly delved into. I spent a day with the boys by the sea whilst Jon studied, this was my choice, as sad as it may seem, if the boys are happy and entertained then so am I. Jon had organised with Bettina, the Austrian next door, to look after the boys in the evening so we could have a meal in the local restaurant. We arrived at the restaurant overlooking the bay just as the sun was setting, painting the sea orange and yellow, 10 minutes after sitting down a group of dolphins danced across the colourful sea, this really made my day!

 


Friday 25th May
We chose a campsite near Umag, just 1/2 hour from Slovenia. We parked in the woods with the play park and sea in front of us, our Austrian family to the side of us, but most importantly the campsite is quiet, well it was until we arrived anyway! Oh yes and then there is the bit where Jon drove into a post and dented the front passenger door.

 


Sunday 20th May
We packed up and moved away to Istria, staying near Rovinj a lovely town built on a small peninsula. On the Tuesday we took a boat excursion to the Lim Fjord, it was quite handy that the boat picked us up straight from the campsite. Before we sat down we were plied with drink, possibly to make up for the lack of events on the trip itself. It was a pleasant ride on a boat to see some water, trees and a few birds: Heron, Egrets and Sea gulls. The height of excitement for the boys, apart from drinking fizzy water, was visiting a pirate’s cave. We had to pay 5kn each for the privilege although we did get a free postcard. We had a look around a small cave and then back onto the boat and back to the campsite. It would have been a pleasant and relaxing trip, if it could be done without young children but lacked any actual excitement, unless you count seeing the naturist sunbathers!


Wednesday 23rd May
We hook up with an Austrian family with 2 boys, 6 and 3. The eldest boy Sandro speaks a little bit of English and understands it quite well so they are able to communicate in some way. They spent a lot of the day in the sea and were quite firm buddies by bedtime.


The following day we went to Rovinj, a lovely town with a good feel to it. There is a great fruit market, next to a play park, where we bought our weekly fruit rations. We climbed up to the church at the highest point of the town, the church give Rovinj its picturesque quality from across the water. We returned home for a splash in the sea and enjoyed tea with our new Austrian friends.


Wednesday and Thursday night we were kept awake by a very loud disco about 50m from our caravan, this went on until midnight and the campsite along was noisy until the wee small hours. Due to this we decided to leave the campsite the next day. We were not alone and there was a mass exodus, well 5 families anyway, leaving the campsite due to the noise. Our Austrian friends decided to move as well and as we were only going 1 hour up the road came with us much to the boys delight.

 


Friday 18th May
Early Friday morning we were rudely awoken by high winds rocking the caravan and threatening to carry our unpegged awning away. We made a few adjustments at 4am but had to go back out at 6am to put on the storm strap and attempt to put a few pegs into the very stony ground. At this point we noticed we had left the recently purchased folding picnic table and chairs outside and as is typical before I could put on my coat the wind had taken it and blown it 100m down the campsite, breaking the table but luckily not damaging anybody else’s caravan or injuring anyone.


By 9am we realised the awning just may not hold with the amount of pegs, a German couple further along had already lost their awning to the trees. A Belgian couple had offered to give us a hand so we decided to pursue the risky option of taking down the awning; it went well despite one pole snapping (Luckily it was the extending part and so could be turned around, so was not fatal). Removing the awning exposed the boxes stored underneath the caravan and 5 minutes later a box was sent flying spewing its contents, again we were lucky this did not hit anyone or anything but the box was broken and some of the contents were lost. The caravan spent most of the morning and half the afternoon rocking to and fro like a boat on the sea. We later learnt this wind is called the Bora, a wind that blows from the mountains, and it was set to last for 3 days, although it never again reached the slightly scary intensity of Friday morning. Needless to say we stayed in the caravan for most of Friday, which went quite well considering there were now 6 of us and Jon and I even managed to catch a nap.


Saturday 19th May
It was time to take Dad to the airport, his flight was not until the evening and so we spent the afternoon in Split. We spent a pleasant time on the Quay and even had a chance to see some model yacht racing. We took a stroll around the Palace, which is an eclectic mix of Roman ruins, Egyptian figures, medieval houses, modern shops and modern graffiti. Dad treated us to an ice cream and then departed, the children of course wanting to go with him, I think they are trying to tell us something.

 


Saturday 12th May
After another free fish on the Friday and an invasion of the ants on Saturday we set off for Novigrad 2 hours drive further north than Split. My Dad was coming to visit for a week so Jon picked him up from the airport. We spent Sunday chilling out with Dad learning caravan etiquette and the boys relishing in having someone else’s attention.


Monday 14th May
Novigrad is a small fishing village situated on an inland sea with a small inlet to the wider sea. The village suffered a little in the recent war and is not particularly picturesque; it has not become a tourist trap yet and in places looks slightly ramshackle. However, the setting is beautiful, the people are friendly and the reality of the place gives it it’s own charm. High on a hill there is a broken down fortress, to get to it there is a steep and interesting climb with many dangerous bits for children and grandfathers in flip flops to fall to their deaths. Luckily this did not happen!


Tuesday 15th May
Close by there is National Park Palenica a favoured haunt for rock climbers. As you enter the park you are instantly thrust into a deep gorge with a refreshing tree lined mountain stream running through on one side. On each visible rock face there were climbers clinging and ropes dangling, the boys enjoyed watching and couldn’t understand why we couldn’t do it. On our walk we saw some tadpoles (well the boys enjoyed it!) two really big Common European Toads, some Alpine swifts and a blue and red lizard that looked rather exotic. The park boasts having wolves and brown bears and although a glimpse of these, from a very safe distance, would have rounded the day off nicely we did not feel too disappointed.


Wednesday 16th May
Not content with walking the previous day we took Dad to Vransko Jezero (a lake). We went for a walk along a cycling route and saw some bee eaters, a buzzard, a hoopoe and many others that could not be distinguished, later on we also saw a tortoise, but we were not sure if it was wild or a pet runaway.


Thursday 17th May
We couldn’t have Dad come to Croatia and not take him to one of the islands, we chose Ugljan, also connected to Pasman by a small bridge. We had lunch by the quayside at Zadar and then hopped onto the Ferry. We drove up to the highest point on Ugljan and climbed the last 10 minutes up a narrow and steep and rocky path to the ruined fortress on top, which also houses the TV tower. You would think we had had enough of Fortresses by now! Again safety is for the concern of the visitor. The view is very good from the top and I was glad Dad got the chance to see it. After this we stopped off at a few fishing villages, in one we saw a ship yard bringing derelict boats back to life but apart from that and the views there was little of interest on these two islands and it has to be said that Hvar was certainly more picturesque.

 


Friday 4th May
After a day of teaching and Jon studying, caused by the rain, we decide to move further north. We drive along the Adriatic highway. The road twists and turns along the coastline with the mountains on one side and the sea on the other. Croatia has a beautiful and dramatic coastline. The purple hued mountains are covered in green pines interspersed with Cypress trees standing straight and aloft, the mountains literally tumble down to the water where they are caressed by the aquamarine of the sea. (Sorry got a bit poetical there!) Later we pass some beautiful lakes, it was impossible to resist the draw to stop and take some photos and sample the serenity.


We come across our campsite and park immediately above the sea. Jonny luck has followed us as we discover Friday is a free fish party day at the camping ground. The host Mladen spoke very good English and was extremely friendly. Another German couple joined us, as did a mad Irishman called Darra who has been cycling around Europe for the past 3 months by himself. Not content with a 70km cycle he went for a run before joining us for the excellent fish supper. They all endured our drunken ramblings as we enjoyed too much of Mladen’s excellent home made wine. I’m afraid to say the next day the world was continually spinning and we spent most of the day moving very slowly and talking very quietly. Darra to his credit spent a good while drawing pictures for the boys and smiled as the boys "helped" him pack away his tent. He was a great guy and we wish him luck with his Asian adventure in a few weeks.


After this we go to the island of Hvar. Jonny luck again means that we drive down to the local port to find the boat is ready to leave and drive straight on. The roads are quite bad and it takes an hour to drive to Jelsa after only a rare glimpse of civilisation along the way. Jelsa has a pretty harbour but unfortunately there was much building work going on so the air was full of Diesel and noise. After lunch and a quick walk around the small town we carried on to Stari Grad. This too had a beautiful harbour and building work.


We drove further to the town of Hvar, dubbed as a small Dubrovnik. It has again some impressive walls, although not wide enough to walk on. However, we take a walk through the towns small alleyways and climb to the fortress at the top looking down over the town and the surrounding sea. There is a pleasing view from the top where one can see the familiar terracotta roofs, the small neat harbour with a selection of yachts and small fishing boats and a collection of small islands. The islands are like droplets of green land that have bubbled up to the surface of the tranquil waters.


We drove calmly back to the port Sucarej safe in the knowledge that the last ferry was midnight so we wouldn’t be stranded. We arrived at the port just after 8pm and as luck would have it the Ferry was just coming in to dock, but we could not get on because it did not go again until…yep midnight! OK maybe this was something we should have checked but there weren’t any visible timetables. So there we are at the port 8pm with 3 kids in a car with lettuce, cucumber and raisins for tea! We took a stroll around the port for an hour then headed back to the car and broke the videos out. Finally back home for 1am. Needless to say we all slept in until about 10am the next morning.

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